funwaveC is a time‐dependent Boussinesq model with equations similar to the nonlinear shallow water equations, but also includes higher‐order dispersive terms. funwaveC has been previously used to study a variety of surfzone processes including cross-shore tracer dispersion driven by individual bores (Feddersen 2007), surfzone drifter dispersion in a weak alongshore current (Spydell and Feddersen 2009), spectral wave transformation, mean currents, and surfzone eddies (Feddersen et al. 2011), cross-shore tracer dispersion in moderate alongshore currents (Clark et al. 2011), shoreline runup (Guza and Feddersen 2012), and net circulation cells on coral reef spur and groove formations (Rogers et al. 2013).

Regional Ocean Modeling System

The Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is a three-dimensional, free surface, bathymetry follow- ing numerical model, solving finite difference approximation of Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations with the hydrostatic and Boussinesq approximations (Shchepetkin and McWilliams 2005; Haidvogel et al. 2008; Shchepetkin and McWilliams 2009).

Here is a brief description of some models which I widely use in my research.

Simulating WAves Nearshore

The third generation, spectral SWAN wave model (Booij et al. 1999; Ris et al. 1999) includes shoaling, wave refraction due to both bathymetry and mean currents, en- ergy input due to winds, energy loss due to white-capping, bottom friction, and depth-limited breaking. SWAN in- puts include a bathymetric grid, incident wave spectra boundary conditions, wind to allow wind-wave generation, and mean velocity for current induced wave refraction.  

Nirnimesh Kumar,Ph.D


The open-source Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave and Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system (Warner et al. 2010) couples an atmospheric (WRF), wave (SWAN), three-dimensional (3D) circulation and stratification (ROMS), and sediment transport models. The coupled modeling system has been validated in a variety of applications including the study of wave-current interaction and depth-varying cross- (e.g., undertow) and along- shore currents in the surf zone (Kumar et al. 2011, 2012), and a tidal inlet (Olabarrieta et al. 2011), atmospheric- ocean-wave interactions under hurricane forcing (Olabarrieta et al. 2012), and sediment dispersal in shallow semi- enclosed basins (Sclavo et al. 2013).